The journey begins at Bologna‘s Central Station, a well-connected railway hub that can be easily reached from all over Italy.
From here, the train heads towards the Apennines along the historic Porrettana railway, inaugurated in 1864 and still one of the most evocative ways to explore the Bolognese hinterland.

After about an hour’s trip, you reach Riola di Vergato, a small town at the foot of the mountains that is home to two authentic architectural gems.

The first is the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, designed by the famous Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. It is the only Italian work by the Scandinavian master, a rare and harmonious example of modern architecture perfectly integrated into the Apennine landscape.

The second is the striking Rocchetta Mattei, which can be reached by a short walk of about 20 minutes (1.4 km) or by bus. This eccentric building, commissioned by Count Cesare Mattei, combines different styles, from Moorish to Neo-Gothic, to create a fascinating and timeless visual experience.
The guided tour (obligatory, to be booked in advance) allows you to discover the history of the Count, inventor of electrohomoeopathy, and to explore the fairytale rooms, courtyards and towers.

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  Rocchetta Mattei | Ph. pio3 via shutterstock

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  Rocchetta Mattei | Ph Angelo Nastri Nacchio

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  Rocchetta Mattei | Ph: matteo_it, via Shutterstock (solo uso editoriale)

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  Rocchetta Mattei | Ph. pio3 via shutterstock solo uso editoriale

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  Rocchetta Mattei | Ph: Gaia Conventi, via Shutterstock (solo uso editoriale)

Back at Riola station, you can take the regional train and in about 15 minutes you reach Porretta Terme, a famous spa town in the Apennines near Bologna.

Known since ancient times for its curative waters, today Porretta is a welcoming centre where you can relax among thermal baths, parks, historic shops and Liberty architecture. A visit to the sulphur springs, located in rocky tunnels below street level, is recommended.

Porretta is also famous for its links with music: every year it hosts the Porretta Soul Festival, an event not to be missed by lovers of soul and rhythm & blues, and it is home to the Soul Museum, which collects evidence of the passage through Porretta of the great protagonists of soul music.

There are also many walks in the area, such as the Monte della Croce loop trail, an easy walk of about an hour and a half (3.8 km) that starts right from the historic centre.

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  Porretta Terme | Ph. discoveraltorenoterme.it

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  Porretta Terme | Ph. discoveraltorenoterme.it

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  Porretta Terme | Ph. discoveraltorenoterme.it

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  Porretta Terme | Ph. discoveraltorenoterme.it

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  Porretta Terme | Ph. discoveraltorenoterme.it

After a weekend of art, architecture, wellness and nature, it is time to return to Bologna by train, taking with you the memories of a slow and authentic journey through the Bolognese Apennines.

The journey from Porretta Terme to Bologna takes about an hour and ten minutes and will give you the opportunity to fill your eyes once again with the fascinating colours and panoramas typical of the early Apennines.